On Monday, we embarked on our full day journey to Phnom Penh. Getting to Koh Rong was very easy – we took a van from Kampot, walked a few blocks to the pier, and hopped on a ferry. Getting back to civilization from Koh Rong proved to be low quality and unorganized. After walking on the beach through rain, we were met with a janky old wooden boat that claimed it would take us to the actual ferry back to Sihanoukville. On Koh Rong’s main pier, we transferred over to the ferry we were originally expecting. After all passengers were loaded and we had pushed away from the pier, a crew member got everyone’s attention to tell us, “We’re down to one engine, but I think we’ll be able to make it all the way back to Sihanoukville. Oh and we’re going to drop you off at a different pier than the one you left on, so just wait out on the street for our bus to drive you back into town. Look for a guy in a yellow shirt.” Um… what?!
Although we could hear and feel the engine being overworked, we successfully made it across the sea… only to dock up next to another boat (had to walk across both boats with our belongings to access the dock) and were dropped off at the Supply Port…. aka the town’s trash dump. I think there was more trash than water near the dock. After walking past massive garbage bags overflowing with trash and plastic bottles, we made it to the street. Our bus arrived about twenty minutes later to transport us back into town. Flynn and I found a Tourist Information Center and booked the next bus to Phnom Penh. We were told we would get picked up right at the center, but they failed to mention it was a sketchy old van that would transport us to the real bus. By 1pm, we had taken a janky wooden boat, subpar ferry, coach bus, and sketchy van before finally hopping on a leather-seated bus for the 5 hour journey to Phnom Penh.
We arrived in Phnom Penh around 7pm and checked into our hostel. The 24/7 electricity, air conditioning, and wifi along with a very clean room and bathroom were greatly welcomed by us after our remote/lacking facilities in Koh Rong. After settling in, we met up for dinner with my cousin, Chantz, who has lived in Phnom Penh for the last five and a half years. We ate fried rice, prawns, and veggies in a tamarind sauce which was delicious! Flynn went back to the hostel and Chantz and I headed out on the town for some country music and rounds of Liar’s Dice. What are the chances that Monday nights are country nights at one of the bar’s here in town?! Chantz knew the lead singer of the cover band and he came over to chat with us during their break. After introducing me and explaining that I was excited to hear some country music, the lead singer said, “I figured as much. When you got to the top of the stairs, I saw your eyes get big with a goofy smile plastered to your face.” I don’t think you understand my level of love for country music and especially for LIVE country music. This never happens in Asia!
Flynn and I hit the ground running Tuesday morning. We had booked a full day tour of the S21 prison and Killing Fields through our hostel which left at 8:30am. The S21 prison was our first stop and deeply disturbing. They showed graphic pictures of the last 14 victims found and had them blown up to the size of movie posters. The audio tour discussed in detail the torture techniques used and showed the equipment recovered. It was troubling to hear that a) this genocide happened so recently (1975-1979) yet this was the first time I had heard about it, b) 1.5 million to 3 million people of all ages were murdered in a span of 4 years, and c) there are Cambodians who visit S21 prison to this day to try to identify their family members in hundreds of mug shot pictures. Flynn and I walked through the S21 prison separately and when we met back up two hours later, we both mentioned how nauseous we felt. Is this from the food we ate last night? Please don’t be food poisoning again! Maybe it’s from this place and the gory details and pictures? This is way worse than Dachau.
We boarded the van along with our 11 other hostel mates and drove out to one of the over 300 killing fields. The Killing Fields were again set up with an audio tour and described how the mass graves were found, how many people were killed daily (typically around 300), and their execution methods. My nausea only increased at the Killing Fields. The audio tour explained how the Killing Tree (still erected) was used to kill babies by holding on to their ankles, smashing their heads against the tree, and tossing them into the nearby mass grave. Upon discovery, brain matter and skull fragments were found embedded in the bark. It took everything in my power not to throw up after hearing that and staring at the actual tree.
After our hour tour concluded, Flynn and I sat in a restaurant and attempted to digest everything we were just told and shown, but we found it difficult to come up with words other than “what the….”. After further research, I learned the leaders of Khmer Rouge weren’t convicted until 2007-2012. Seriously, how did I miss all of this international news?!
Once we got back to our hostel, I took a much needed nap as my body just didn’t feel right. When I woke up two hours later, I was still feeling off, but wanted to try to accomplish my Nepal To-Do list. After struggling to concentrate and make any progress, I retreated back into my bed and listened to my body yelling at me to give it a break. I think it was a combination of my time in Koh Rong, the previous nights’ food, lack of sleep, and the tour that caused my body to just shut down. My insides hurt and my brain couldn’t process what others were saying to me.
I’m happy to report after sleeping for 10 and a half hours, I was back to my normal functioning self and able to actually write a coherent blog. You should have seen what I attempted to write Tuesday night… Yikes…
Wednesday was spent completing my To-Do list and running last minute errands. About midday we headed over to Chantz’s apartment to get one last workout in and take a well-deserved break at his rooftop pool.
All of Thursday was spent making our way to Nepal. Our flight from Phnom Penh to Kuala Lumpur was uneventful. Our flight from KL to Kathmandu was a different story. The Nepalise men were very confused during the boarding process. They didn’t understand their ticket had a seat number on it so the stewardess had to show each one of them where to sit. We were two of ten white people on the flight and two of only four females. The men looked at Flynn and I as if we were aliens. Where are all the women?! I feel like we’re about to enter a whole new level of male dominance.
When we arrived at the Kathmandu airport, again, there was an overwhelming amount of men and hardly any women around. With so many men around, my chances of finding a husband have to be astronomically high.
We arrived to our hostel (creatively named 8848 Hostel because you know, the height of Mt. Everest is 8,848 meters) and were looking forward to getting some sleep. Unfortunately, the walls and windows were super thin so I got maybe three hours of sleep. As Flynn described to her husband, Paul, the next morning, “It was like seven families and their dogs were having dinner in our room.” It was so loud that I got up to check that our windows were shut three times throughout the night…. and we were on the 5th floor!
After breakfast on Friday, Flynn and I headed out to get our two trekking permits. One hour and $40 later (each), we had our permits in our hands! Is this really happening?! The rest of the day was spent taking money out of ATMs (we have to carry all our money on us for the next 21 days), breaking down said money into small bills (the villages in the higher elevations typically won’t be able to break the equivalent of $10), buying gear (down jackets as the high has only been about 10 degrees in some of the higher elevations, Nalgene which perfectly connects to our water filter), and buying last minute items (Tiger Balm for our sore muscles, chapstick with SPF, face wash so I don’t have to carry all my Proactiv products, peanut butter for energy on the trail, etc.).
Our original plan was to hop on a bus Saturday morning to begin trekking on Sunday. After a full day spent walking around Kathmandu buying our necessary items, we felt we still needed one more day to get everything done and not feel rushed. Our main problem was money. Flynn was only about to take out the equivalent of $500 per day and we needed as least $630 to get us through three weeks. Then came the issue of breaking our money down into small bills. 1,000 Nepali rupees comes out of ATMs ($10), but most items will cost between 100-500 Nepali rupees ($1-$5) while on the trail. We had been warned if you need to pay 200 rupees and only have 1,000 rupees on you, the entire village will have to combine their money to create your change or you’ll just be out whatever amount they are unable to scrap together.
I first headed to a bank to get change, but they were only able to break down 20,000 of my 80,000 Nepalese rupees. After explaining why I needed the small bills, the staff member told me to come back the next day between noon-3pm and they would be able to break down most of my remaining money. We then decided to try our luck at a currency exchange as they are not allowed to charge a commission for their services. We quickly found out most currency exchange places were either unable or unwilling to break down more than a 1,000 rupees bill (I had over 60 that still needed to be converted).
We switched to a hotel Friday evening so a) we could get a decent night’s sleep and b) two friends from high school just so happened to be coming back from a trek in the Annapurna region and were also staying at the hotel. Being raised in a town of 1,000 people, I am literally halfway around the world and hanging out with Nick Maguire from Treynor and Maureen Houser from Riverside. I mean, what are the chances?!
On Saturday, we headed back out to the streets to get the rest of our items. Once noon rolled around, we headed to the bank. The staff member remembered me right away (probably because I wore the exact same clothes as yesterday; trying to save my clean clothes for beginning the trek and another stash for when I return) and went into a back office. She emerged with a canvas bag in her hands, sized similar to a regular drawstring bag, and a security office to stand next to me. In a matter of ten minutes, I had changed out 45 of my 60 remaining large bills in exchange for stacks of 100s ($1) and 50s ($.50). Once the canvas bag was empty, it was Flynn’s turn…. except I had cleaned the bank out completely… so we were back to square one to break down Flynn’s money.
This specific bank was the only one we could find open on a Saturday (their Saturday is equivalent to our Sunday) so we spent the next three hours literally going into every single currency exchange place on two streets (there is one about every 20 meters) and just taking whatever amount they would break down. By 4pm, we had arrived back to our hotel with 90% of the money converted. We spent one hour going through our gear, splitting up shared items, and packing everything we’ll need for the next three weeks into two 70 liter backpacks, each weighing 35 pounds. The weight is definitely heavier than we wanted, but due to starting out at 2,624 feet and hiking as high as 17,777 feet, we have to carry warm, cold, and rain gear for the duration of our trek.
It is now Saturday night as I’m writing this blog. Tomorrow we will leave out hotel at 6am to catch our 7am bus to Besisahar. While it’s only 179km away, we anticipate it taking between 6-8 hours due to road conditions (still lots of destruction from the back to back earthquakes in 2015) and traffic.
This will be the last blog until April 22 as I will not have wifi for the next three weeks and even if I did, I’m not about to add an additional 8 pounds to carry my laptop through the Himalayas. Plus, there’s a strong chance we’ll be without electricity in most of the villages once we reach a certain elevation. I do plan to keep an old school handwritten daily journal while on the trail and will type up all my thoughts and experiences for you upon my return to civilization.
Over the next three weeks, I anticipate using only my feet as a mode of transportation, being completely disconnected from the outside world, wearing only two outfits (one for hiking, one for hanging out in the villages at night), hiking an average of 7 hours per day, eating dal bhat twice a day every day, going to the bathroom outside more often than inside, and sleeping in a shack where you can hear a person fart three rooms down. So why am I doing this you might ask?! Because I’m about to see some of the most beautiful scenery on this planet, hike in the Himalayas with one of my best friends, and cross Thorong La Pass, the highest navigable pass in the world.
HERE WE GO!!!!!!